Words Tony Benjamin
Some years ago, my brother arrived at Temple Meads, out of breath and late for our meeting. While he scrabbled for the paper with the details of his destination on it, he told the taxi driver he was going to a "great Indian restaurant near the centre". "No problem," replied the grinning cabbie, "that'll be the Kathmandu." He was right.
After their Easton takeaway had been Venue readers' top munch for too many years to remember, the lovely Kathmandu people closed up and reopened as a plush-but-comfortable restaurant opposite the Colston Hall. Nothing was lost in the rich quality of their Nepalese and Indian menu, but everything was gained in being able to spend the whole evening in the company of this friendly family.
As a result, Kathmandu ruled, but the last few years have seen stiff competition emerge as new businesses opened offering distinctive South Asian cuisine. As a fan of some of these competitors, I wanted to see if, sentiment aside, the Old Firm really did still have something distinctive to offer. So, when Big Daddy, The Princess and the Kentish Maid all wanted a good meal out, I took their varied palates along to Colston Towers and put it to the test.
If it had been a while since my last visit, the staff didn't show it. They greeted me as a long-lost friend and were keen to meet my companions.
It was an honest, amiable welcome that summed up the hospitable feel of the Kathmandu; this unobtrusive care remained reliable throughout the meal despite a busy evening.
Being a foursome, we could start (after the obligatory poppadoms) with the Nepalese platter, which enabled us all to sample wo (spiced meat and lentil patty), mo mo (pork dumplings, dim sum style) and chicken and lamb choyla (small salty meat pieces rich in garlic and ginger).
This was pungent food, more assertive than Bangladeshi sauces, and was collectively greeted with enthusiasm. It set the standard for what followed: the Maid's duck makalu was tender and vigorous, the Princess's tandoori murghi a rich-tasting moist delight, my lamb pasanda delicate and sweet and Big Daddy's second bite at lamb choyla sizzlingly hot. Combined with rich dal tarka and succulent brinjal (aubergines) in onion and tomato sauce, it made for a splendid palate of flavours and textures, mopped up with plain and garlic naan and pilau rice.
We'd shared a bottle of very fruity Chilean Merlot (driver Big Daddy contenting himself with a Kingfisher) and nobody could find fault with anything. On the contrary, we were all very satisfied indeed. The bill for all four, including drinks, came to a mere £100 which felt nothing short of miraculous for so delicious a meal in the heart of Bristol. The field may be more crowded these days but there's no doubt that Kathmandu is very much still in the running.
Kathmandu, Colston Tower, Colston St, Bristol BS1 4XE. Tel: 0117 929 4455 Review © Copyright 2009 Venue
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